![]() file these down to remove burrs.Īlternately, you could mount the all-thread to the masonry and use a hammer to indent the wood plate, giving you a guide for drilling the holes in the plate. after the epoxy sets, cut off any excess all-thread with a hack saw, angle grinder, or a good sawzall blade. put the plate over the all thread and bolt it down with the nuts and washers. fill the masonry holes with epoxy and insert the all-thread. ![]() use a shop-vac or a turkey baster and the wire brush to clean the debris from the holes. drill 4" - 5" into the top block course so that the holes in the plate align with the holes in the masonry. use the holes in the plate as a guide to drill into the masonry with the rotohammer. drill holes in the plate every 2 feet or so. Lay the top plate on top of the wall, centered. Is the wall capped? or can you see the top of the block cells? big-boxes will probably rent you the rotohammer. all of these things are available at any good hardware/big-box store. If you have a good, soild wall, you'll need: a rotohammer with an 8" long 5/8" diameter masonry bit, simpson set 22 epoxy, a wire bottle brush, 8" pieces of 1/2" all-thread, one washer (1-1/2" o.d.) and one nut per all-thread, a drill with a 5/8" wood bit, and a top plate, at least 2x4. you will frame the border of your lattice to this plate. you'll have to mount a wood top plate on top of the wall, preferably pressure-treated lumber. If this is the case, you don't need to insert sleeves through the full height of the wall but bud is right: screws won't be sufficient. in bond beam courses and - most importantly - in the top course. horizontal rebar should be placed every 4 vertical feet o.c. vertical rebar should be attached to the footing at a max of every 4 linear feet o.c.and continue to within 2 inches of the top of the wall. are all block cells filled with concrete? if it was built properly, there should be a grid of rebar, horizontal and vertical, inside the wall, and then the cells are filled with concrete.
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